Turin: 2006 Olympic host city blends traditional charm and modern edge
TURIN, Italy ---- Turin has everything you'd expect to love about an Italian city near the Alps: moonlit piazzas, baroque churches, fairy-tale castles. They're stunning, of course, but the city's originality comes from the cool, contemporary touches that don't strike you at first glance.
One minute, you might find yourself admiring a stately 18th-century building. Look closer, and you see the cheeky piece of modern art that adorns it: a giant silver "body piercing" stuck right through the cornerstone. That's Turin ---- traditional and trendy.
The city, getting ready now to host the 2006 Winter Olympics, has always been masterful at reinventing itself. It was the seat of the Savoy kings, the first capital of a unified Italy, home to the factories of the Fiat auto empire and, now, a thriving center for contemporary art and design.
Like Pittsburgh, Turin (Torino in Italian) is trying to shed a reputation for sputtering smokestacks. Many of the factories have moved away to find cheaper labor, and Fiat has fallen on hard times. The Olympics are part of efforts to find a new future.
Considering it's the birthplace of Italian industry, today Turin seems surprisingly pristine. It has green parks, clean, wide boulevards and snow-covered mountains in the distance that boast a network of ski resorts called the Via Lattea, or "Milky Way" ---- more than 200 interconnected pistes that extend into France.
Olympic visitors will want to set aside at least two full days for the city's highlights, and more to see the Savoy castles and nature parks of the surrounding Piedmont region. Piedmont, famed for hazelnuts and the white truffles that are harvested each autumn, shares the Alps with neighboring France and Switzerland and is crossed by Italy's longest river, the Po.
At night, Turin is a perfect place to unwind after a long day in the spectator stands.
A typical winter evening might start out in one of the cafes, sipping a Martini vermouth or, for caffeine-lovers, a bicerin ---- Turin's signature bitter blend of coffee, milk and chocolate. The city is famous for its cafe culture.
The bars come in all types, from hip to cozy, but visitors should definitely try one of the historical cafes on or around the 17th-century Piazza San Carlo, which is sometimes compared to Paris' elegant Place Vendome. (Now, like much of the city, the square is a huge construction site. Workers are putting in underground parking.)
On the piazza, Caffe Torino is somewhat expensive, but the gilt-and-marble decor can't be beat, the waiters wear tuxedos and there's a mouthwatering spread of appetizers that come free with a drink at the bar.
Evening is the best time for a passeggiata, or stroll. Thanks to an initiative to bring in lighting installations by contemporary artists, the city is magical at night. These aren't your typical Christmas decorations ---- they utterly transform Turin.
Don't miss Via Po, a street of white buildings with arcade passageways. At night, a solar system of lights glitters overhead, with a fanciful array of floating planets, stars and moons designed by the Italian artist Giulio Paolini.
A Frenchman, Daniel Buren, designed a sea of small lanterns to float above a city square at Piazza Palazzo di Citta. Down the street, you can find the "body piercing" that was hooked to the corner of a historical building in 1996 by Corrado Levi and a group of young architects known by the name Cliostraadt.
When it's time to eat, enjoy: The region boasts some of Italy's best cuisine. Foodies say that most of the truly great culinary experiences are had in Turin's surroundings, but the city has some gems. Tre Galline in the Quadrilatero neighborhood has a whimsical trompe l'oeil decor and an endless tasting menu for $45. (Don't pass up the panna cotta on the dessert tray.)
In any restaurant with traditional fare, carnivores will want to try bollito misto, a plate of mixed boiled meats. Piedmont also gave the world Barolo, Barbaresco and Asti Spumante wines.
Anyone still on their feet after all the food and drink can check out the dance clubs at Docks Dora, a converted site of former warehouses.
For many visitors, the letdown of the city is not being able to see the Shroud of Turin, which is rarely put on exhibit. The Duomo cathedral displays a photographic reproduction of the linen strip that some believe was Jesus' burial cloth, but it may be better to plan another travel stop instead.
Fiat's old Lingotto plant is one interesting choice ---- it's part of the city's attempts to give new life to abandoned industrial areas. The factory was reinvented by the maverick contemporary architect Renzo Piano, who topped it off with a distinctive glass bubble and turned it into a postindustrial mall, concert hall, conference center and art gallery that houses treasures collected by Giovanni Agnelli, the late Fiat magnate.
Children will appreciate the mummies and artifacts at the Egyptian Museum, which has one of the world's most extensive collections. Parco del Valentino, a green stretch along the river's edge, has great paths for Rollerblading and biking, and Via Garibaldi will please teenagers with its inexpensive shops and people-watching potential. In between the stores are lovely baroque churches. Thanks to the Savoys, the city boasts some of Europe's best architecture in that style.
The most unusual building in Turin's skyline is the Mole Antonelliana, which was originally conceived as a synagogue and is emblazoned on Italy's 2-cent euro coins. A faux Greek temple perches atop the square base; on top of that, there's a needle reaching into the sky.
Inside is an excellent, interactive cinema museum and a futuristic elevator that sweeps visitors up to the best panoramic view of the mountains and the city.
Right now, what stands out are all the pre-Olympic construction cranes piercing the sky ---- a sign Turin is reinventing itself yet again.If You Go ...
GETTING AROUND: The city's first subway line is still under construction. Buses and trams are generally efficient, but the best way to explore the accessible city center is to bundle up and walk. Even if it's raining, the city has 11 miles of arcades to protect visitors from the elements.
WHAT TO EAT: Beyond the fine wines, Piedmont is home to gianduiotto, a blend of chocolate and hazelnuts savored around the world under the name Nutella. Less sugary regional specialties include white truffles and strong cheeses such as Gorgonzola.
WHERE TO STAY: During the Olympics, even mountain-lovers may have to stay in Turin because of the shortage of shelter in the hills.
Olympic organizers say they have booked all the three- to five-star hotels, so try the cheaper places first. The figure-skating arena is about 20 minutes by bus from the city center, for example, while skiing events are tougher to reach. The main mountain parking lot and train drop-off site is in Oulx, 45 miles away. Organizers say the best choice is to take a train from the city center. Traffic will be strictly limited on the narrow Alpine roads.
OLYMPIC TICKETS: In the European Union, tickets can be purchased through the Turin Olympics Web site, www.torino2006.org. A list of ticket agents for countries outside the EU is also available. The U.S. agent is at www.cosport.com/ or (877) 457-4647.
SKIING: Local skiing lasts into April. Visit www.vialattea.it/ and www.montagnedoc.it/ for information.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: For transit, tours and accommodations in Turin, visit www.turismotorino.org/. For information about the Piedmont region, www.regione.piemonte.it/lingue/english/index.htm.